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“You can’t raise kids without hope.” says terminally pessimistic Arthur Pryszbyszewski in Tracy Letts’ 2008 play “Superior Donuts” now running at The Artistic Home at The Den Theatre. Directed by Artistic Home ensemble member John Mossman, “Superior Donuts” tells an authentic Chicago story in the cozy kind of theater our city is known for.

Originally produced by Steppenwolf on the heels of Letts’ Pulitzer Prize landmark “August: Osage County”, this play feels almost lighthearted by comparison. “Superior Donuts” swaps the blues of the Oklahoma plains for the desperation of Chicago’s Uptown neighborhood, before the Target opened on Wilson.

Arthur Pryszbyszewski, impeccably played by Scott Westerman, is a complicated, introverted middle aged man who’s devoted himself to keeping the family donut shop in business long after its heyday. One morning he finds his shop vandalized and in walks Franco, a young man with big dreams but even bigger debts. Franco is an aspiring novelist with no shortage of things to say on virtually every topic. His stream of conscious babble eventually helps Arthur open up.

Letts’ has a real knack for gritty stories, but what he does especially well is cleanly written scenes. Playwriting doesn’t have to be complicated. “Superior Donuts” excels much like his other work in that each characters’ desires and disappointments are clearly laid out. You’re never wondering what the point of a scene is. That is to say, Letts never leads you into the weeds.

In two briskly paced acts, “Superior Donuts” is both a male-driven comedy and a hard-hitting drama. Letts explores what happens to neighborhoods when small businesses close. You don’t just lose the business; you lose pillars of neighborhoods. Arthur is a reluctant pillar but his paternal affection for Franco becomes his greatest achievement.

Featuring a cast of Artistic Home ensemble and newcomers, Mossman's’ production is stacked. John N. Williams is well suited to the awkward but endearing Franco. Ensemble member Kristin Collins plays CPD officer Randy Osteen, Arthur’s burgeoning love interest. Collins’ Chicago accent and mannerisms are incredibly comforting.

“Superior Donuts” is not only a love letter to Chicago’s Uptown neighborhood but also a world you don’t mind spending a little more time in. In fact, it was adapted into a relatively successful CBS tv series in 2010.

Artistic Home reinterprets “Superior Donuts” at a time when Uptown has more or less been gentrified. No longer on the cusp as depicted in the play. In 2025, it feels more like a heartwarming period piece that true Chicagoans will fondly remember.

Through December 6 at Artistic Home at The Den Theatre. 1331 N Milwaukee Ave. 773-697-3830 

Published in Theatre in Review

 

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